August 2 Muscatine, IA to Dallas City, IL
Distance 71 miles rode my bike 53 of those miles hitched rides the other 18, 12 mph average, 4:25 ride time, 7 hours and 15 minutes on road, expenses $2.86
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Jim is like a Swiss watch for punctuality as he met me at 6:25 AM. We loaded up Spirit and headed back the 8 ½ miles to the junction I passed on my way toMuscatineyesterday. As we turned onto the road I saw it was going to be an uphill grind immediately and said “S_ _t”! Jim asked what’s wrong and I said great I get to start riding up a hill. To that Jim asked if I didn’t mind he’d take me up the hill. I assured him I’m not a purist and would gladly accept his offer. A mile down the road we found a farm yard to pull into. Exiting the car our nostrils got a good whiff of hog crap. Jim asked, “What is that horrible smell”. To which I replied, “Just like your dad used to say about the smell at the landfill (Jim’s family had owned a garbage route and landfill many years) it’s the smell of money”. Then I shared with him what the smell really was coming from as we could see the hog buildings not more then 70 yards from us. With that I loaded my pannier on Spirit and headed down the road.
The next 34 miles were on gentle rolling hills and the morning and I was able to enjoy the countryside. When I came to my next turn on the route, wow! The road I was about to turn on was freshly oiled and pea gravel spread on top of it, considering it was already over 90° the surface of this road was a slimy gooey mess. Check the Illinoismap against the MRT Guide it appeared I could continue riding on CR 3 for another couple miles and connect to a State Route 164 then to US 34 West. About this time a pick-up came driving up and I hailed it down, the driver’s name Kristen. I confirmed my alternate route choice with her and was ready to ride away when Kristen said if I wasn’t in a big hurry she would give me a ride to SH 96 about 17 miles away. She clinched her offer when she told me US34 would be very dangerous as it was 2 lanes with only a gravel shoulder and fast traffic heading to Burlington. OK, like I’ve said I’m not a purest that has to ride “EFI” so loaded Spirit into the bed of the pick-up truck. I learned Kristin is a lifelong resident of the Oquawka area, her first stop was to visit her mom a few minutes at a nursing home and then she was driving over to Burlingtonto buy groceries. While Kristin visited her mom I walked over to the Alexis Phelps home on the river (only a block away) to check it out. I learned both Abraham Lincoln and Stephen A. Douglas (Of the famous Lincoln/Douglas debates which help catapult Lincolninto the national limelight and eventual presidency) were his friends and both had stayed at his home but not at the same time. Chief Blackhawk, an Indian who I admired for his successful resistance to our government’s abusive treatment of Native Americans back then was a friend of Mr. Phelps. Last bit of trivia Phelps died at age 46, Lincolnat 56 while Chief Blackhawk lived to 71.
- Alexis Phelps home
View of the Mississippi River from the Phelps home
Kristin surprised me as she did only visit her mom a few minutes and we were on our way. Just south of Oquawka is theHendersonCountyCovered Bridge from mid 1800s which Kristin agreed to stop in order for me to take a picture. There is a sign above the bridge which reads “Five dollar fine for leading or driving any beast over the bridge faster than a walk or driving more than 30 head of cattle, mules or horses at a time across this bridge”. That would have been one stiff fine back in those days. Guess the Headless Horseman from the story “Legend of Sleepy Hollow” never rode thru this covered bridge.
Henderson County Covered Bridge
The 17 miles passed all too soon and I had to say good bye to Kristin and thanked her for her act of kindness. She did caution me to be careful on SH 96 as it is a narrow two lane road without a shoulder and fast traffic. I have to say every vehicle and there were many which passed me on SH 96 gave me plenty of space. Arriving in Lomax Kristin had told me to be sure to stop for lunch at “The Pink” as it had the best food in the county. I stopped and she was right. As almost everywhere I stop the waitress and locals were a friendly lot allowing me the opportunity to enjoy good company while enjoying good food. One particular farmer took an extra interest in my ride and visited with me asking a few more questions than usual and shaking my hand as he left. When I completed my sandwich and went to pay the cashier I learned the farmer who shook my hand had paid for my meal. I went outside in hopes of seeing him and thanking him for his kindness but could not find him. Since this journal entry is being written after completing the first half of MRT, the Warm Shower Hosts I stayed with in DallasCitywho also frequent The Pink restaurant found the name of farmer, Tim Jack. If you’re reading this Jack thank you for your kindness. If not, the Lionberger’s gave me your address I’ll be contacting you which I will do anyway.
It was a very short ride from Lomax to Dallas City. I stopped for an ice cream and learned my Warm Shower hosts Doris and Jess had been in for lunch and had told the owners of the place I’d be staying the night. The gal even gave me the address and as I was riding to the Lionberger’s home Doris was coming to town and stopped to say Hi and that she would be home shortly and Jess was waiting for me at the camper. It was another short ride, though up a hill, to Doris and Jess’s place. Sure enough Jess met me in the yard, showed me to their 5th wheel camper and said that would be the best place for me to stay tonight they were even staying in the camper as it was much easier to keep cool than the house. Jess than led me to the house where I cleaned up and then returned to the camper. Jess had a cold beer waiting for me, he doesn’t drink himself but they keep the beer for bicyclist like me. Jess andDoris like previous Warm Shower hosts are bicycle enthusiast, maybe even to the extreme this time as they are doing something to promote or advance bicycling most everyday. They help with races in the area, Jess had been CAT racer and had quite a stable of bicycles in the house, garage and a trailer. WhenDoris came home she prepared us a meatloaf dinner with fresh green beans, baked potato, salad, homemade apple pie from their own trees and ice-cream.
How small is the world, pretty small it turned out Jess is related to a number of folks in my home community ofNevada,Missouri. Doris even phoned one of them who now lives inIowaand I even talked to Darra myself. What a trip, I love it. After dinner Doris and Jess decided to drive me back over to Burlington to see the “World’s Crookedness Alley” I had wanted to ride up this alley when I did the RAGRAI and it ended there but decided after three long days in the saddle I didn’t need to climb a steep hill on bricks just for the fun of it. So Jess drove us down the alley before moving onto other sights inBurlington. I later learned Jim and family spent the night inBurlingtonand even went to the giant amusement center we stopped by that evening. Did I mention what a small world we live in?
Before going to bed Jess, Doris and I laid out a plan for the morning. We get up have homemade biscuits prepared byDorisand sausage gravy prepared by Jess. Then they would drive me 15 miles down the road to Nauvoo as there was plenty of history and sights to see there and I wouldn’t have time to see them if I had to ride the full 55 miles to Quincy. Every time I think I’ve met the ultimate Warm Showers host there comes along folks likeDorisand Jess. By the time I left them I really really did feel like family. What a fun visit, I’ll never forget them. Thank you Jess andDorisfor a fantastic visit!
Jess, Old Guy and Doris
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